hiya, iam considering putting in seat bars in my mk1.all the interior is out at the moment as i just replaced the front floors so its either now or never!!
just wanting to find out some advantages/disadvatages of doing this..pics would be great aswell
and whats the best way of working out the correct heights and angles? its for recaros.
cheers
Can anyone advise Bundy?Originally Posted by bundy
hiya, iam considering putting in seat bars in my mk1.all the interior is out at the moment as i just replaced the front floors so its either now or never!!
just wanting to find out some advantages/disadvatages of doing this..pics would be great aswell
and whats the best way of working out the correct heights and angles? its for recaros.
cheers
the best way or sorting it out on normal runners is to block the seat up with wood till its at a height your comfy with. then take measurements at the mounting hole lines, but basicly you need the front around 30-40mm higher than the rear, get a bar kit from prepfab as these use the sliding nuts type bars and take your time
thanks 4 the replys
with the reinforcing plates do they get welded onto the inner sills and tunnel or do i cut out the sections and weld the plates in
weld over the top... drill a 6mm hole in one corner before doing it though as this allows the area behind to breathe
cheers Gary. yeh i was just concerned about trapping so much air between the plates but the breather hole makes perfect sense
thanks
Gary,
I know welding all round is neatest, but is it not engineeringly [is that a word??] not sound due to metal structure changes just next to weld etc. Is this not one of the reasons we stitch weld seams ??
PS round tube is the go.
Rules is Rules Roger, over here a continous seam weld is required.. as for the pros and cons of stitch or seam .. a stitch as many start points for fractures ..ie either end of the stitch.. over a 10" length that around 10 points where as a seam weld has no breaks so less starting ponts for fractures.
Its a bit of a suck and see really as the uses and positions to do continuous welding or not and also experience.. you do it.. if it cracks you try it another way, if it cracks again you make the part better
sorry to bring up an old thread, but I've bought some cobra classic bucket seats that came with some "universal mounts" that dont fit my car. I see what you have done in race cars but if my seats were to be fitted like that then there could be no access to my rear seats, which I still want as it is still a road car.
Even if I mount them far forward straight into the floorpan(with strengthening plates etc) then it is still pretty impossible for passengers to get in because the seats are fixed back.
How can I get around this? I'm thinking some kind of setup similar to the standard mk1 setup, but stronger. Any ideas?
You can get a universal seat subframe with a tilting mechanism in it ... try some of the seat manufactures over there to see if they do them.
Chaps,
What size is recommended for the tubing.
EG. diameter and wall thickness ??
Thank you
Well, ....got f#$k All input from you lot, so went my own way.
have you cut into the floor there to fit them
also my end spreader plates are twise the size off them
Motorsport Tools our sponsor do some nice seat mounting bar kits and quite cheap too
Cosworth Electronics / Pectel Dealer, Syvecs Dealer.
Europes Largest Link ECU Dealer - Aim Sportline Dash and Datalogger Dealer, ECU Master for South East UK
UK Mahle and Reinz Distributor - 3J Driveline Dealer - Corbeau Seat Dealer
ECU & Dash packages preconfigured and custom looms made to order.
Professional conversions - Engine Swaps - Complete Project Design
0% Finance Available on all products and services.
[B]Engine Parts for most makes, all Ford parts kept in stock, Pinto, Xflow, YB, V4, V6, Zetec, Dratec, Wiring Looms Plugs, Plug Kits and Loom Products, Head Refurbishment and Porting, Engine Rebuilding Services.
w: www.shopbhp.com e: sales@shopbhp.com
Like us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/brandshatchperformance
Yes , mate, certainly looks like it
Good on you for adding extra weight !also my end spreader plates are twise the size off them
The end plates even at 14 X twise the size, would envelope around the tubes, in a side impact, as there is very little strength in sills etc. Same deal at trans tunnel.
Affixing tubes to floor [at chassis rails] also means a side impact, might not even convolute floor pan, providing a "cell" area for driver.
Either way its a fair bit stronger/stiffer than further up images
i was only saying christ
put your dummy back in
i was only saying christ
put your dummy back in
And you haven't put crush prevention in tubes. How are you gonna get any tension on those bolts
Last edited by Roger Miller; 01-08-2008 at 13:14.
good point mate will look into that thanks
first 1 ive done so im learning as i go
Whatcha cando is, find some tube, that seat bolts fit in, and drill out the upper side of your bars, to suit Outside Diameter. , of new tube.
[Only drill through upper half of seat bar]
Then you'll have to shape new tube to "fit" in this hole.
Run some weld around top of hole, when fitted.
Bit of grinding, should end up looking like factory made
................................
Last edited by Roger Miller; 02-08-2008 at 08:53.
thanks never really thought about it before you mentioned it
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Gary
Bookmarks